Carnival in Dominica -- "Jammin' for True in 2002!"
A Visitor's View of Carnival in the Commonwealth of Dominica

by Corinne Mah

My first view of Dominica is breathtaking. The rugged mountains covered with lush, impossibly green rainforests drop sharply into the brilliant blue of the Caribbean Sea. Then, my breath is taken away by the small plane's dip-rise-bank-then-dive landing into Melville Hall airport. The passengers applaud as we breathe a collective sigh of relief.

"The Nature Island," as the Commonwealth of Dominica is called, is a wondrous place. Not as touristy and developed as other Caribbean islands, it is a diamond-in-the-rough. The natural beauty of the island -- waterfalls, rivers, jungles, hiking and diving -- must be experienced, but I've arrived to experience Dominica's annual Carnival festivities.

Dominica is a relatively small island (29 by 16 miles, pop. 70,000), so its Carnival celebrations cannot rival those in Trinidad or Rio de Janiero, but what it lacks in numbers, it makes up for with enthusiastic, island-wide participation. The official language is English, and Kweyol, a French-based patois, is also spoken. The Dominican people are friendly and helpful ... and they love to party. Their Carnival has two unique offerings: sensay masqueraders and bouyon music (more on these later).

The September 11th terrorist attacks in the U.S. have resulted in a devastating drop-off in the island's tourist industry, and the overall mood seems subdued. But as Carnival approaches, homecoming Dominicans arrive from England and other Caribbean islands, and Roseau (the capital city) starts buzzing with activity. Whether you stay at the upscale Fort Young Hotel or a budget guesthouse, getting around is easy. The minibuses are cheap and convenient, or you can hire a driver for tours and taxi service. My favorite drivers are Ninja and Kello -- ask for them near the Old Marketplace -- who take good care of me by providing pick-ups, drop-offs, sightseeing, hints, tip, good times and friendship.

The Events Leading Up to Carnival

The songs of Carnival are released before Christmas and the music blasts from storefronts, minibuses and bars, becoming a key part of the Carnival experience. From the political commentary of Calypso and kaiso to soca music's invitation to jump up and party -- the songs carry a message and the locals debate the merits of songs and artists with as much fervor as for political or sporting events. By the time Lent rolls around, you'll know all the songs by heart, and hearing them in the future brings back your Carnival experience. Right away, I have three favorite tunes: the old-style "Calypso For Me" (by Scratchie), the political cry of "Give Me Back My Vote" (by The Observer), and the scandalously humorous dance anthem "Osama Say" (by the Mighty Pawol).

At a free street concert in downtown Roseau the singers showcase their talents and receive plenty of feedback from the audience packed into the narrow streets. The Swinging Stars band provides great musical backing for all the artists until a torrential downpour halts the show. Performing for nearly two decades, the Swinging Stars is Dominica's most versatile band. The group seems to be everywhere this Carnival: backing the Calypso shows, providing music for the Carnival Queens Show, and playing at venues large and small. Their appeal is universal and they play well in any style (soca, calypso, pop), with a full sound, tight arrangements and strong vocals.

A visit with Marcia Dublin at the Movement for Cultural Awareness (MCA) educates me about Dominica's cultural groups such as the Waitikubuli Dancers, traditional Caribbean drummers including "La Cel Difference" or "Ti Bois," and steel pan bands like "Fanta Pan." There are big events throughout the Roseau area, and Ms. Dublin informs me that the smaller communities also celebrate Carnival with their own sensay parades, contests, Lapo Kabwit (goat skin drum) bands, and jump-ups behind music trucks. Plus, the Arawak Theatre successfully premieres "Ma Pampo," a play about Dominica's most famous citizen, 127-year-old Ma Pampo. There is so much talent on this small island! I listen to the radio for the latest Carnival news, and stop by Frontline Bookstore in Roseau to buy tickets to the shows and hear about the hottest events.

In the two weeks leading up to Carnival, the energy builds and there are non-stop shows, contests and parties. Carnival means competitions and there are plenty: the Soca and Calypso Monarch showdowns, as well as the Junior Monarch, Mother's Queen Show, Miss Teen, and National Queen contests. I have to pace myself so I can enjoy as many events as possible.

At the Stardom King of the Tent concert, all the contestants perform, striving for the Calypso and Soca Monarch title. They put on an enjoyable show for a large, appreciative audience. In the end, The Observer is crowned Calypso Monarch - his call to the politicians to "give me back my vote" has struck a chord with the people.

At home I would not dream of going to a beauty pageant, but I like to try new experiences when I travel, so I find myself at the National Queen Show standing with new friends in Pottersville Football Field (a strange place to hold a pageant, but the only place large enough to accommodate the crowd). As the rain comes and goes, a sea of umbrellas opens and closes sporadically. The elegant, formal affair progresses through the talent, traditional dress, bathing suit and evening gown competitions with much commentary and critiques from the audience. At the end of the night, Miss Samantha Doctrove is crowned Carnival Queen 2002. On another night, I attend a charming Carnival Princess Show in the village of Pointe Michel, where little girls compete in their own pageant to the rousing support of the villagers.

Jouvay Morning

It's here at last! My favorite part of Carnival is Jouvay Morning (The Opening), on the Sunday night before Carnival Monday. In the wee hours starting from about midnight onward, revelers take to the streets to commence the two-day national holiday they've been waiting for all year. The rhythmic beat of Lapo Kabwit bands (a mix of African-style drums with English bass and snare drums, blaring horns and other noisemakers) accompanies the groups of celebrants through the dark streets in Roseau as well as in the villages. There are people everywhere, some dressed "come-as-you-are" and others in a variety of costumes -- the Mighty Pawol's group dresses in "tropical Osama gear," people wear bathrobes, baby outfits and I even see some incredible cross-dressers. Anything goes and there are no restrictions! Jouvay is the "people's celebration" that's more spontaneous and natural than the more formal parades. We dance through the streets well into the morning, when I stagger home to catch some rest before Monday's events.

The Parades

There are different flavors to the Carnival masquerade. One part is the Ole Mas Parade featuring traditional Carnival themes such as the Fancy Sailor group, flat-bed trucks carrying steel pan bands, cultural dance/drum groups like the captivating "Tanbou Bo Kannal" from Martinique, and glittery costumed groups including the Thunderbirds, Carnival Troopers and Carnival Corner. The parade also includes community groups, celebrities and the Carnival winners. Later in the day, the sound system trucks come out to provide the danceable beats of soca and bouyon music, at ear-shattering levels. I dance through Roseau amid the surging crowds until the 11 p.m. curfew stifles the celebration.

I finally get to see the incredible sensay on Carnival Tuesday. The village of St. Joseph has a sensay festival that, sadly, I missed. But there are plenty of sensay mas players in Roseau, and they are a magical sight.
Their impressive costumes are huge, shaggy, head-to-toe outfits made of strands of rope, shredded colorful fabric, straw, or black satin covered with mirrors, worn with ugly face masks, massive horned headpieces, and big boots that have bottle caps or noisemakers on them. As they swirl and bob down the road, looming toward little children, they are amazing to watch, especially considering how hot they must get in those heavy costumes under the tropical sun. The sensay are part of the Carnival Corner masqueraders. This group has the most fantastic costumes and their music is in the wonderful, swinging Calypso style.

Carnival Tuesday then brings out the "t-shirt bands." After the fancy costumes in Monday's parade, it's a more casual day of street dancing. Because I'm staying in Pointe Michel, I had enrolled to jump up with the local band, First Serenade, and for a small fee, I received a T-shirt to wear, a rag to wave, and drink tickets. It's time for everyone to jump up with the sound of Dominica's bouyon music. The most popular bouyon bands are WCK, First Serenade Band, and Raw Riddim, and their sound trucks arrive in Roseau mid-afternoon, loaded down with speakers and musicians. Based on ragga-soca music, bouyon adds a twist: its beat is furiously fast, and there's a banjo-like melody running through the songs. It's loud and energetic and the crowds love it, dancing, jumping and flinging themselves around to "wine up" behind the bands' trucks as they snake through the streets. It's a non-stop party through the streets, and we move from band to band to sample different kinds of music, right up until the 11 p.m. end to the street bacchanal.

Tewe Vaval

Most Caribbean Carnival celebrations end at midnight on Tuesday, and Ash Wednesday is the time to atone for your sins. But in Dominica, there is the Tewe Vaval ceremony on Wednesday. In the Carib Territories and the village of Dublanc, people gather to "bury the spirit of Vaval." At mid-day, a mock funeral procession begins to make its way through town, with "mourners" carrying an effigy and coffin as the centerpiece for people to pay tribute to Vaval with chanting, drumming and dancing. The procession gathers more people and intensity as the day progresses. As darkness falls, a huge bonfire is lit and young men jump over and through the fire. The ceremony climaxes with the burning of the effigy, which signifies the close of this year's Carnival celebration.

Exhausted but exhilarated, I decide to stay on to experience the quieter side of Dominica, and plan on returning to enjoy another Carnival celebration on the beautiful Nature Island.

(Corinne Mah is a freelance writer and publishing specialist who has a passionate interest in Caribbean music and dance. You can e-mail her at cm@corinnemah.com.)